Looking to cycle Le P’tit Train du Nord in Quebec?
The first time I rode the trail, I was not tackling Le P’tit Train du Nord cycling route alone, as our outdoor recreation club was featuring this ride as an introduction to bicycle touring, so there would be a group of 17 of us.
Located north of Montreal, this route, part of the Trans Canada Trail, is perfect for the task as it is only 201 km long and can easily be covered in 3 or 4 days. However, our group leader decided to have mercy on us, and we would have 5 days to cover Le P’tit Train du Nord Bike Trail.
Use this helpful guide to plan your own ride!
Distance – 201 km, about 3 or 4 days of cycling
Terrain – Generally flat or gently rolling, but with one major (but gradual) hill just past Mont Tremblant
Surface – mainly paved rail trail, but there are gravel sections
Suitable for – bicycle touring, families, beginners, cycle groups
Many cyclists on the route had purchased a package that included motel or B&B accommodation, some meals, and baggage transfers, but not our group, as we were going with loaded panniers for a camping experience.
Built from 1891 to 1909, Le P’tit Train du Nord was a rail line built by the Canadian Pacific Railway to take people from Montreal to the Laurentians resort area. In 1996, this linear park opened, built over the old railway line, became a recreational trail, and has been popular with cyclists ever since.
Starting in St Jerome
We had arrangements for a shuttle bus with a bicycle trailer to transfer us to Mont Laurier at the start of the route. It is a popular service at this time of the year, and the first bus was for another group, but ours soon arrived, and we were on our 2 ½ hour drive north to Mont Laurier.
We gathered in St. Jerome, a town located just north of Montreal, which on this sunny Sunday was crowded with cyclists, as the parking lot is free on weekends. For those with extended stays like ourselves, it would cost $6 a day to park here during the week. As we waited for our transportation, some went to a parked railcar, now a snack bar; the outdoor bar/restaurant, or the former rail station, which contained washrooms and the tourist information office.
Originally, we were to camp the first night as well, but considering there was rain in the forecast and the long drive getting to St. Jerome, the trip leader wanted to start the trip off with us in good spirits and opted for the Complex 80 motel. After dinner in the motel restaurant, we headed nearby for grocery items for our next day’s lunch. And is often the case it didn’t rain, at least on the first day.
Mont Laurier to Nominique Cycling
Our motel was close to the route, so after the complimentary continental breakfast and briefing, we headed off at our own pace this first day.
This was a self-guided trip, so it can be difficult to get a group of 17 going on loaded bicycles, which they are not used to, but we were able to start from the 201 km marker along the paved cycling path quite quickly.
Soon we reached a paved road where the route took us up a small incline along the road (the only road section on the route); to our surprise, a police officer there turned on their flashing lights and escorted us, stopping the oncoming traffic. When we reached another road crossing a few kilometers along, the same police officer was there halting traffic for us and some other cyclists to cross safely.
Today’s distance was to be about 60 km through a forested landscape, but this being a rail trail meant that the hills tended to be long and gradual and proved not much of a challenge. There were numerous small lakes and river crossings as well.
We stopped at one of these picnic shelters beside a lake for our lunch. Riding in mid-June meant there were plenty of bugs, so some of the group put on their bug jackets that each of us had been encouraged to pack. We passed plenty of rivers and Lac Saguay soon after during this stage.
What I liked about this route is that there are distance markers every km, so you know exactly where you are, plus a picnic table or shelter and outhouses at convenient distances.
The entrance to Camping Au Boise Du Village near Nominique was located right along the Le P’tit Train du Nord route, and the owner climbed on a golf cart to lead us to the group camping area. After setting up camp, we cycled the short distance into the small village to pick up food items for dinner and the next day.
Most of the other cyclists we met were from other parts of Canada, but there were a few from the U.S. as well. We met some who were staying at the Auberge Chez Ignace and having their gear moved for them from Inn to Inn (or B&B).
Nominque to Labelle Cycling
Like other towns, the former Nominque train station is now a rest area for cyclists and contains a tourist office and washrooms. Our ride this morning was along the shores of Lac Nominque before heading into forested areas again. Also, like the previous day, there were plenty of picnic shelters and washrooms along the bike path, but we never stopped long as the insects were out in force.
We stopped at Rivière Rouge at the tourist office in the train station, where we were advised that there was an excellent café just off the trail. Also, many of the train stations feature a station with an air pump and bike tools. Soon after arriving at the café, two other cycling groups arrived, so it was quite busy as we sat on the outdoor patio.
One exception was our lunch stop on a bridge over some rapids, where the breeze kept the bugs at bay. The trail was paved, with parts of the trail having minor climbs, so it was easygoing.
One of our group members ran into bike issues he could not fix (more than just a flat tire), so because there are several bike shops along the route, he was able to take a taxi into town and catch up to us later.
After about 50 km, we reached Labelle, one of the larger towns, and headed down a steep hill to the river and the Chutes-aux-Iroquois campground. The river here has a major waterfall, and downstream kayak and canoe trips are a popular activity, but with a strong current, the operators pick you up 12 km downstream.
We headed to check out the local convenience stores for dinner, breakfast, and lunch items, and also checked out a smaller waterfall right in the campground. Lots of bugs, so many in the group put on their bug jackets.
Labelle to Domaine Lausanne Cycling
The first half of today’s ride was through the forest with several river crossings, and we even spotted a wild turkey on the trail ahead of us. This part was on a hard-packed crushed stone surface, easy to ride even with my loaded road bicycle.
Mont Tremblant
We reached a large lake and the popular ski resort town of Mont-Tremblant, and the trail had a newly paved surface. We stopped by a café for coffee and could not resist the fresh pastry and watching plenty of kids swimming at a nearby beach.
Leaving Mont-Tremblant, this was the steepest section of the trail again became hard-packed, but this time we had a 12 km uphill climb through the Laurentian Mountains. Although it was a rail trail, it was a gentle slope. Along the way were the usual picnic shelters and washrooms.
As there would be no grocery store at the campground tonight, we stopped and loaded our panniers even more with dinner, breakfast, and lunch provisions, a tight squeeze. But still had not reached the top of the hill, which took another 2 km. The route then curved, running parallel to Hwy 117, the main highway in the area. It was fairly flat as it took us past lumber yards and an open-pit mine until we reached Camping Domaine, Lausanne.
This is a large campground, and the group area was near a lake and a large recreation center. The highlight was a groundhog carrying its young out of the way as we camped on its home turf. The campground offers cabins on the lake, which one person in the group thought was a great idea and elected to take. For the rest of us, we put on bug jackets as swarms of insects came to visit us.
Domaine Lausanne to Val David Cycling
At 6 a.m., our group leader came around the camp, urging us to get up and pack as wet weather was forecast for 7 a.m., and nothing is worse than setting up or packing in the rain. The good thing about this southern section was that it was only a short 27 km ride today, and although it did start raining by the time we reached the resort town of Val David. Make sure your gear is in Ortlieb Waterproof panniers.
It was raining quite hard at this time, so we headed for Rotisserie Au Petit Poucet, a traditional Quebec restaurant in a large wooden cabin, for a late breakfast. Well, we still didn’t avoid setting up our tents in the rain at the nearby Camping Laurentien.
A 2 km walk to the center of Val David to check out the art galleries, pubs, and shops.
Worth Stopping Along the Route. We cheated tonight and went to Restaurant le Villageois, located near the campground, rather than using our camp stoves, although it had stopped raining.
Val David to St. Jerome Cycling
This last section was only about 50 km long, but at least it was sunny. We soon were following a raging river and could view the rapids while riding along. A lot of the surface on this last stage was gravel, but I had no issues with my road bike, although a mountain bike would have performed better.
There were plenty of train stations with washrooms and cafes, and a lot more cyclists. While there was a slight uphill at the start, most of the latter half of the ride was downhill until we reached our final destination at the 0 km marker in Saint Jerome.
Le P’tit Train du Nord Map
Le P’tit Train du Nord Resources
Le P’tit Train du Nord – the official website for additional information
Autobus Le Petit Train du Nord – bicycle rentals, luggage transfers, bike shuttle
VRBO – many cottages, chalets, and apartments that are near or border the trail
Booking.com – a wide choice of hotels
Expedia – hotels and motels along the route
Where to Camp along Le P’tit Train du Nord Bike Trail
We were camping for most of the trip, but stayed in a motel the first night:
Complex le Dix80, Mont Laurier – we stayed in this motel, 1 km from the trail
Camping Aug Boise Du Village, Nominque – has an entrance right on the bike trail
Chutes-aux-Iroquois, Labelle – a large campground with a view of waterfalls
Camping Domaine Lausanne, Sainte-Agathe-des-Monts – a large campground which also had cabins over the lake
Camping Laurentien, Val David – a few km from the center of town
FAQs: Le P’tit Train du Nord
When is the best time to cycle Le P’tit Train du Nord
The autumn provides spectacular colors, but this linear park is open all year, with many cross-country skiers in the winter. You may encounter plenty of bugs in June and early July.
Is Le P’tit Train du Nord paved?
While many sections are paved, some sections have crushed stone. A mountain bike is preferred, but it is possible to ride with a road bicycle with thin tires.
How long is Le P’tit Train du Nord?
The linear park is 201 km from Mont Laurier to St. Jerome. There are connecting trails across Laval to Montreal. It is part of Quebec’s Route Verte bicycle trail network.
Which direction is best to cycle Le P’tit Train du Nord?
Start in the north at Mont Laurier and ride south to St. Jerome, as there is a slight descent overall.
Can you purchase supplies along Le P’tit Train du Nord?
There are grocery stores in all the towns along the route with easy meals suitable for cyclists. To reduce weight, you should purchase your food daily. A number of the towns also had restaurants.
Wrap-up: Le P’tit Train du Nord Cycling Route
We drove to Montreal for a few days, cycling around the city; however, the cycling route has a connector trail, so you can ride to the center of the city if you wish. You may also wish to check out Quebec City cycling.
Another source of information is the official website for Le P’tit Train du Nord.
If looking for a long-distance cycling route in Eastern Canada, this is one you must consider. Le P’tit Train du Nord, over 201 km, offers an amazing bicycle touring route with awesome scenery, resort towns, and numerous facilities for cyclists.
