Looking to learn more about cycling in the Dordogne Region of France?
I prefer Cycling in Dordogne France, instead of the more popular bike routes found in Provence or the Châteaux Country, which are also good. So 5 friends and I went bicycle touring in the best parts of the region.
When riding along the Dordogne River and the nearby Lot River region in southern France, expect to see prehistoric caves, medieval villages, castles, and walnut plantations, and enjoy great wines besides the beautiful scenery along the rivers.
Use my helpful guide to plan and visit both the Lot River and Dordogne River area.
The area is popular with European cyclists on their way to other regions. For Canadians and Americans, France is always popular, and this area makes a great two or three-week French cycling holiday. As this is a very hilly region, you can expect to use your low gears often.
Highlights when Cycling Dordogne
Cahors – Pont Valentre (bridge)
Saint Cirq Lapopie – hillside town with stone walls
Lot River – scenic cycling, sometimes with overhanging cliffs
Rocamadour – a cliffside town with a famous church
Gouffre de Padirac – a huge cave with an underground boat ride
Carennac – a medieval 12th-century village with a rich history
Salat – a huge outdoor market on Wednesday and Saturday in this medieval city
Montignac – prehistoric sites and caves
La Roque-Gageac – a quaint riverside town
Domme – great views of the Dordogne Valley
Beynac – Castelnaud and Beynac Castle from the 100 Years’ War, wine region
Bicycle Touring in France along Lot River
Our plan on this cycle route (not a signed route) was to first travel along the River Lot from Cahors to Figeac, then across a plateau to the Dordogne Valley and explore there using mainly local roads. However, many cyclists start on the 160 km signed Lot Valley Bike route from Aiguillon to Cahors.
Cahors
We started in Toulouse and took the train, although it can be an easy one-day bicycle tour to Cahors to the north. We picked up lunch items at the market in Cahors before leaving and also took time to see the ancient Pont Valentre (bridge).
Then head to the quiet and very narrow roads dug into the hills just south of the town, with great views of the Lot River Valley. As you cycle along the River Lot, you will pass through ancient tunnels along the roads and pass fields of sunflowers.
Saint Cirq Lapopie
Spending a night or two in Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, a village built on the side of a hill with cobblestone streets and stone houses and hotels to match, is a must. Rick Steves, the PBS TV host, states, “Beg, borrow or steal a night in Saint-Cirq-Lapopie and he has my total agreement. So do take plenty of time to explore the village and enjoy the cuisine at the local restaurants after walking up the cobblestone streets.
The Hotel de la Pelissaria, where we stayed, was an old stone building with 10 rooms, each with a patio overlooking the town and valley below. Keep in mind this is a small village with limited accommodation, so book in advance. It is built on a hillside, so you want to be near the center.
We stayed 2 nights, taking a day ride along the north side of the Lot River on our free day to Espagnac Ste Eulalie, which included a one-of-a-kind outdoor exhibit along the way.
Today we had plenty of time as it was only a 45 km ride through the River Lot Valley at our own pace, passing houses built right into the stone cliffs. On the ridges, we could see the outlines of ancient towns. The road was not busy and fairly flat.
Figeac
However, as we got closer to Figeac, there were some hills with switchbacks we had to climb, and we passed a hiking group crossing the road. In Figeac itself, there was a lot of traffic, and we had to take care.
Reaching Figeac, we stayed in the Hostellerie De L’Europe for a night, where all the guests seemed to be cyclists or hikers. In the past, the Tour de France has passed through this town, and even during our visit, we met many cyclists.
Riding the Gramat Causse Figeac to Rocamadour
Continue bicycle touring in France by cycling to Rocamadour across the Gramat Causse on country lanes, which at first is a gently rolling and rocky region populated by sheep and low trees. In fact, we were delayed in one section by a flock of sheep crossing the road. That was followed by a section with a steep gradient on a number of hills, which made this a long ride.
Rocamadour
Rocamadour is a religious center built into the cliff on the side of a deep ravine. It includes Chapelle Notre-Dame with the black Madonna statue and the Romanesque-Gothic Basilica of St. Sauveur. If visiting in September, dates can be difficult to obtain accommodation due to festivals.
The Hotel Du Lion D’Or is interesting in that our rooms were next to a cliff, and across the pedestrian-only street was the restaurant with a superb valley view. We noticed some hot air balloons rising above the town as well.
A great village to base yourself in for a few days for some hiking or a visit to the Gouffre de Parirac caves. We went there by bicycle, and the caves feature an underground boat ride.
We also took a day bicycle tour to nearby medieval Carennac, considered by many to be one of France’s most beautiful villages, which several did. Carennac is indeed a pretty town worth exploring.
Bicycle Touring in France along the Dordogne River
Sarlat la Caneda
Leaving Rocamadour, we again cycled through hilly terrain before reaching the Dordogne River. Continue along the river, passing walnut plantations until reaching Cazouels, where you can take the 20 km greenway bicycle path, which goes from the river into the medieval town of Sarlat
In Sarlat, we checked into the Hotel des Recollets right in the heart of the town. Schedule your visit to include the Saturday morning market (also on Wednesdays), covering several blocks which are well worth a visit, as is the cathedral. In the evening, walk to local restaurants through the lighted streets.
I took a canoe trip on the Dordogne River, passing castles and vineyards as I paddled down the river. There is also a gourmet and market day tour available, and I had scheduled our stay so that I would be there during market day.
Montignac
Next, our cycle tour took us a little to the north to Montignac, home of the Lascaux Caves, discovered in 1940. It is a series of prehistoric caves, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, best known for its prehistoric paintings on the walls and ceiling.
A popular attraction, our group had to obtain tickets in Montignac and then ride uphill to the nearby caves. There is a one-hour guided tour to start, and some time on your own for a recommended 2 1/2-hour visit.
Continuing the theme, loop south through the Vézère Valley and follow the river to La Roque St. Christophe, home of some ancient cliff dwellings, well worth a visit. There was one steep uphill, but with a fine view before we arrived at our accommodation.
Les Eyzies
A great place to stop your bicycle touring for the night is in Les Eyzies, just down the river a bit further, where we stayed in Hotel Le Moulin De La Beune. This is a bit more upscale than where I usually stay, but it is used by some of the bike tour companies.
As often happens, they ask if you are staying for dinner so they can make reservations as the restaurant sells out. It turns out the dinner in their restaurant, which is located next to the stream with the waterwheel, was amazing.
Cadouin
In the small town of Cadouin, there is a bicycle museum filled with items from the early days of cycling, including the Tour de France, so we visited the museum and spent the night. Although the pizza was on the menu as there were few restaurants in this town, it was perhaps the best pizza in France.
We were the only guests at the Hotel La Salvetat, so it was a good thing we had reservations and were expected. The infinity pool with a view over the French countryside was a hit.
Belves
You are bicycle touring again through stands of walnut trees, some even dropping on the road, and our helmets as we cycled into Monpazier with its arcades down the main street, and on our way through Belves, built on a hillside, and a good lunch spot. Besides local foie gras, duck confit, and wine, you will find walnuts in salads, desserts, and many dishes.
Beynac
Our bike trip along the road took us through La Roque Gageac, a one-street village with homes pushed against a limestone cliff, a rocky outcrop at one end, and the River Dordogne to our left.
Then on to Beynac, which makes a good base for a few days, where part of the movie Chocolat was filmed. During our stay at the Hotel Chateau, there was a film crew staying there, working on another movie.
You can walk up the hill to the French Beynac Castle from the 100 Years’ War, which requires a bit of a climb. High above the town, this French castle has dungeons, high walls, and great views, which history buffs are going to love.
A short cycle down the road and away from the river, you have a steep ascent before coming to the English Castelnaud La Chapelle with an impressive museum of combat from the Middle Ages, catapults, a birds of prey show, and great views looking back at the French castle. If you look the other way, you see the vineyards covering the slopes.
We rented canoes for a paddle along the Dordogne, so our first view of Chateau de Castelnaud was from the river.
Another nearby castle just downstream from Beynac is Chateau des Milandes. Visit the castle and impressive gardens, see the birds of prey show, and enjoy lunch at the brewery.
Domme
A short ride from Beynac and up an impressive winding hill is the town of Domme, which has a medieval atmosphere, maybe because we were greeted by a suit of armor outside the first shop we saw.
Back down the hill, we stopped at an outdoor cafe in Montford for a coffee. You can continue your cycle touring westward to Bordeaux, but we cycled to the nearby town of Souillac to take the train back to Toulouse.
Accommodations & Resources
Booking.com and Expedia represent many of the hotels in the Dordogne region, or you may choose to look into HostelWorld. See our itinerary for the hotels we booked.
Travel Insurance – during your France cycling tour
Cycling Tours
Dordogne Valleys and Village Tour – 9-day cycling tour from Exodus
Bicycle Rental
Other bike hire options:
Aquitaine Bike – located in the Dordogne region, offers touring bikes
Cycles Sud Ouest – includes delivery
Liberty Cycle – based in Sarlat, they offer classic and electric bikes
FAQs: Cycle Dordogne
What is the best time to visit the Dordogne?
Anytime from April to October, although it can be a little hot during the summer months. Late May and June or September are best.
Is there a cycle path along the Dordogne?
No, in the Dordogne Valley, you are mostly cycling on quiet roads. But the Cazouels to Sarlat Greenway is a 20 km/12.4-mile rail trail which is now a paved and shaded bicycle path starting right from the river.
Wrap-up: Bicycle Touring in France Along the Dordogne
Another area of France, a longer ride, is in the Alsace region and along the Rhine River, famous for its quaint villages and wines. Voie Verte includes a list of all the greenways in France for non-motorized traffic only; however, electric bikes are permitted.
There are few signed bicycle routes in France, so take along a copy of Cycle Touring in France: Eight selected cycle tours, which include the Dordogne area. I am glad I did, as we made our own arrangements, but there are guided bicycle tours of the region available as well. Check our European cycling routes and the Rhine Bike Route (which included some parts of France from Strasbourg to Basle).
Bicycle touring in France, particularly the Dordogne region, with quiet roads, stopping to enjoy the wonderful food and wine, is a joy!
